The drift question, answered….

Originally Posted by biker3777 View Post
set the punch on the end of the rod bolt and tap it.I just use a plastic hammer to tap the rod cap on the side just make sure it is not bound up.
Originally Posted by marlboro180 View Post

Looking great LTG.After squirting some assembly lube up into the bore from the crank side, rotate that crank so you can get to the rod cap readily.

Take that drift , and place it above the rod cap bolt nuts, up on on the cap a bit but near the nuts . Give it a couple loving smacks with a hammer. … This will help in true alignment of the cap ( and thus the bearing surface ), relieves stress from assembly should it be cocked in any way due to oil / crud/ ugly bits in between the mating surfaces. I’d bet that the way those rod bolts are assembled at the plant they are only so ” true” to one another, and smacking the cap would help that too.

Then go about re- torquing the rod cap nuts per the manual. 

Okay, so I TAP it HERE!

And assembly lube can be any medium-weight oil, right?

So the OTHER good news last night was, the governor arm that I felt was a bit loose, I can get another out of Donor Frank…. I ALSO took some time last night to pull the valves, valve springs and keepers out of Frank. The springs at least look a lot better than the ones currently for Bror… The valves weren’t as crusty, and the intake cleaned up really nice, but I might as well stay with the valves I’ve got. Except for the head, which is crusty from an electrical fire, Frank seems to be in pretty good shape…

Oh, and I ordered the light for the sandblasting cabinet the other night…

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *